Writer: Major Hassaan Javaid, AEC

(Story of an interesting connection between a place, man and a building)

Rattu is a small town located 40 km south of Astore, a district headquarters of Gilgit Baltistan (GB). A bumpy and arduous jeepable track connects Rattu with Astore. Rattu is a local word meaning 'surrounded by high walls'. At an altitude of 9,300 feet above sea level and nestled among snow-capped peaks, Rattu is the perfect place for ski lovers and adventure enthusiasts.

Its picturesque landscapes and state-of-the-art skiing facilities provided by Pakistan Army High Altitude School make it the most stunning ski destination of the country. Rupal face of famous peak Nanga Parbat (8126 m), 2^nd highest in Pakistan and 9th highest in the world, can also be approached from Rattu valley. During summer, the weather remains very pleasant and Rattu is converted into a lush green valley with very beautiful and unique flora and fauna, which includes cumin (zeera) and animals like ibex, markhor and snow leopard. Zho (hybrid yak) may also be seen grazing on lush green grasslands of the valley. During winter, temperature drops to -10 °C to -25 °C and the valley receives 3-6 feet snow, ideal for cross country and downhill skiing.

The valley is surrounded by two rivers namely Kalapani and Mir Malik, passing through the valleys with the same names. The cold water of these rivers becomes a perfect spot for famous trout fishing.

Geographically, Rattu is located at a very important junction of two famous valleys i.e. Kalapani valley in the south east, and Mir Malik valley in south west. Kalapani valley leads to Srinagar, via Kamri Pass, while Mir Malik valley leads to Kel, Azad Kashmir via Shounter Pass.

Rattu has traditionally been used as a route for traders travelling between Kashmir and Gilgit Baltistan (GB). Trade caravans carried goods like spices and silk. These caravans further travel on main silk routes connecting China with Central Asia, Middle East and Europe. These routes were not only used for trade and commerce, but exchange of ideas, beliefs, customs and traditions between various regions. These trade routes remained active for many centuries and the Silk Road still exists, in the form of Karakoram Highway (KKH) connecting Pakistan and the Chinese region of Xinjiang. Even today, the track connecting Rattu (GB Region) and Kel (AJ&K) provides the shortest route between Kashmir and Gilgit Baltistan. Studies are underway to construct a metalled road and tunnels connecting the two regions via Shounter Pass, which will reduce the travelling time from Rattu to Kel from 11 hours to just couple of hours. Moreover, it will provide another route connecting GB region with the rest of the country.

Apart from skiing and trout fishing, another main attraction of Rattu is Maharaja's Hut. Maharaja Ranjeet Singh (1780-1839) established the 1^st Sikh Kingdom by annexing all the area from river Sutlej to river Indus (present day Punjab), parts of the adjoining state ofJammu and Kashmir, Laddakh and Gilgit -Baltistan. The Treaty of Amritsar in 1809 between British East India Company and Maharaja Ranjeet Singh was instrumental in establishing the boundaries of Khalsa Kingdom.

Gigit-Baltistan had always been a buffer state between the powerful Russian empire of the north and emerging powers of the south in the Sub-continent. Due to its geo-strategic location, one of the oldest cantonments was established in Rattu during the reign of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh. Some infantry and artillery elements of the state forces were kept in this cantonment to ensure law and order in surrounding areas of the kingdom. The Maharaj a himself used to stay at Rattu during his visits to Gilgit -Baltistan. For this purpose, a royal hut was built in early 19^th century (1815-1825). The hut is a single story building and a perfect example of vernacular Kashmiri architecture of that time. The hut's structure shows historical skills of Kashmiri craftsmen and demonstrates how traditional buildings adapt to geography, by utilising local stone, wood and brick. The porch, an extended part of the main building, is supported by wooden posts. The wooden frames combined with the mud plaster are extensively used in the building to survive during earthquakes. Although Ranjeet Singh was not educated, he knew the importance of education as he allowed only students to stay in his royal hut.

Maharaja Ranjeet Singh, also known as the Lion of the Punjab ruled over the Khalsa kingdom for nearly 40 years (1799 1839). He organised a very strong and well trained army with foreign assistance. He established good relations with neighbouring states including Afghans and the British, through strong alliances and political agreements. Lahore was the capital of his vast and powerful kingdom. At its pinnacle, the khalsa kingdom extended from the Khyber Pass in the west to the River Sutlej in the east, and from Mithankot in the south to Kashmir in the north of the Indian Subcontinent. However soon after Ranjeet's death, his empire was divided into small principalities and finally collapsed due to internal political differences of rival chiefs, and the rise of the East India Company's rule in the east and south of the country. Finally, Punjab was annexed by the East India Company (EIC) in 1849 after defeating the Sikhs in 2^nd Anglo Sikh War.

Over a century, the Royal Hut remained abandoned and became a ghost house. Recently, it was renovated and preserved as an iconic building, thanks to local Army officials who took a keen interest in preserving this great cultural heritage.

Notes

1. Lieutenant Colonel Junaid Ali, Commandant Army High Altitude School Rattu, interview by author, Rawalpindi, April 15, 2020.
2. Environmental Impact Assessment Report, Pre-Feasibility Study and Feasibility Study of Shounter (Neelum Valley AJ&K) - Rattu (Astor Valley G&B) Road Tunnel. PDF file. April 2017, https:// nha.gov.pk/wp-content/uploads/2017 /07 /Documents-For-Shounter-Neelum-Valley-AJK Rattu-Astor-Valley-GB-Road-TunnelFinal.pdf accessed on 22 April 2020.
3. Ibid.
4. Notes from "History of Northern Light Infantry Regiment':
5. Captain Muhammad Yaseen (officer commanding of an Animal Transport Squadron looking after Maharaja's Hut), interview by author, April 21, 2020.